Sally Vincent

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« Letter from Brittany. October 2004 | Main | Autumn into Winter 2004 »

Quinces and Tomatillos

Quince Ratafia

Quince1

Quince Ratafia will be wonderful by Christmas. It will add a glow as we drink it with the Christmas Pud and the Mince Pies. It will cheer up vanilla ice cream and add a sparkle to the winter fruit salad. Added to the pork gravy or stirred into a pheasant and apple casserole, it will enrich and bring a sweet wintry depth to the sauce.

Grate a really ripe quince into a litre jar. Add a little sugar depending on your taste. Fill the jar with vodka being sure to completely cover the fruit. Cover with a tight fitting lid and store for at least two months in a dark place. Occasionally give the bottle a shake to help the sugar dissolve. The longer you keep it the better it gets!


Quince, Apple and Tangerine Compote.

Tarteaupommes2

Peel the quince with a potato peeler, core and chop into even size chunks. Even ripe quince are very hard, so watch your fingers! Peel, core and chop the apples and slice the tangerines, skin and all, just take out the pips. Put everything in a heavy based pan, tip in 500grams of sugar and heat through, gently at first, till the sugar melts. Then simmer for about an hour till you have a thick, rich puree.

It freezes brilliantly so over the winter months you can eat it with yoghurt or ice cream, or make it into a winter fruit fool.

I will use it as the base of a Tarte au Pommes. Having lined a flan tin with pate sucree and baked it blind, I will cover it with the fruit puree. Next I will arrange the sliced apple in neat circles on the top. I will put it back in the oven until the apples is soft. Then, when it is cool, I will glaze the tarte with rosehip syrup or redcurrant jelly. I will serve it with Devonshire Clotted Cream or home made ice cream.


Tomatillos

Tomatillo

I have never grown Tomatillos before. I was given a packet of seeds as a gift so I had a go. They germinated easily and, after pricking out, I planted them directly into the ground in the Poly tunnel. Tall graceful plants produced pretty little white flowers similar to a potato or tomato. These were followed by masses of green fruit each wrapped in a little paper jacket. Raw they reminded me of something between a crunchy tomato and an apple! I discovered that they are wonderful in Salsa, with ripe tomatoes, garlic and chillies. I made up a recipe this summer.

Sal’s Salsa!

Take two red peppers, ten tomatillos, ten plumb tomatoes, three large cloves Elephant garlic, sprinkle them with olive oil and put them on a roasting tray in a very hot oven. Keep a check on them and remove each as they become soft. The peppers will take longest, up to 20/25 mins. Skin the tomatoes and garlic and place in food processor. Don’t blitz yet! Add the softened tomatillos and the peeled peppers. Take the peel off a lemon with a potato peeler, leaving behind the pith. Add this and the juice of the lemon to the ingredients in the processor. Add a good handful of roughly chopped parsley and chervil and two hot chillies. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper. Now blitz it all very quickly for just a few seconds. Add 3 oz olive oil. Taste, adjust seasoning if necessary. Add a dash of hot chilli sauce if the chillies are not particularly hot. Stand for an hour before using.


Tomatillo, Tomato and Apple Chutney

Chutney1

Of course I have masses of Tomatillos left and the weather is too cold for salsa so Chutney seems the best answer.

Chop up apples and onions. Halve the large tomatoes and tomatillos, leave the little ones whole. I use all the tomatoes left in the greenhouse, red and green. Weigh everything. Once it is all evenly chopped put into a big preserving pan. Add about 250 grams of sugar to 3 kilos of fruit , a tablespoon of salt and spices of your choice. I use cloves, fresh ginger, allspice, mustard seed and chilli, and this time I even added a piece of star anise. Give the pot a good stir then add 1pnt of white wine vinegar. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally till the liquid is reduced and you have a thick, rich golden mass. Let it cool a little, then pot into clean warm jars. Cover with wax circles and jam covers and put away for the winter months ahead.

Off course you can leave out the tomatillos!

Chutney


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Books

  • The Whitefaced Drift of Dartmoor’s Prapper Sheep: A Story as Olde as Them Hills, Colin Pearse
    A history of the White Face Dartmoor sheep. Published by Short Run Press Ltd.
  • The Preserving Book, Oded Schwartz
    My favourite store cupboard book. Published by Dorling Kingersley
  • Les Clafoutis de Christophe, Christophe Felder
    A rustic dessert originating in the Limousin, clafoutis is prepared with black cherries on which one pours a rather thick pancake batter. Christophe Felder, one of the best French pastrycooks, describes some 80 variations on clafoutis, sweet and savoury. Clafoutis with bilberries and fennel-flower, clafoutis with wild strawberries, clafoutis with broccoli and Gruyere....
  • Particular Delights, Nathalie Hambro
    "This book is about the art of eating, a rather wider notion than the art of cooking. Whereas cooking can merely be a mechanical execution of the instructions in a cookery book, eating invloves the use of all the senses. Life can be enhanced by the sensual elements in our surroundings. Forgotten memories are evoked by smell throughout life, and what can compare with the everyday smells of freshly roasted coffee and of bread as it is baked, or the delicate ratafia of plum or cherry jam as it cooks?"
  • Jane Grigson's Fruit Book
    The Fruit Book and it's partner Vegetable Book were the last two books Jane Grigson wrote, and both won the Glenfiddich Writer of the Year Award. She was one of the leading cookery writers of her generation, and as well as her many books she wrote for the Observer Colour Magazine for more than 20 years.
  • A Modern Herbal, Maude Grieve
    Mrs. Grieve's Modern Herbal, first published in 1931, is still in print, and you can also read it online at www.botanical.com.
  • Modern Cookery for Private Families, Eliza Acton
    Unsuccessful as a poet, Eliza Acton found fame with her cookery books. Modern Cookery, first published in 1845, is one of the first cookery books written specifically for housewives.
  • The Cooking of South West France, Paula Wolfert
    Confits and Cassoulets - the 'cuisine de terroir' of South West France. The recipes make use of ingredients which the region has in abundance, such as wild mushrooms, truffles, duck, walnuts, chestnuts, hams, cheeses and wines.
  • Food In England, Dorothy Hartley
    Published in 1954, the best of all books on English Food. Dorothy Hartley described Food In England as being like "an old-fashioned kitchen, not impressive, but a warm and friendly place, where one can come in at any time and have a chat with the cook".

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